Nikon N90 35mm Film Camera

I have used N90s cameras since they were first introduced in the mid-1990s. By that time the autofocus and flash technology had evolved to a point where I felt I would benefit from making the switch from manual focus Nikons. When the N90s came out the top-level Nikon was the F4, which is a heavy camera with what I consider to be outdated autofocus technology. Even in 1995 the F4 autofocus was being leap-frogged by other cameras and unless you needed an interchangeable prism and the more rugged body the N90s was a better choice. And the N90s was half the price of the F4.

One reason I hadn't moved to autofocus before the N90s was because I found most AF cameras to be too plastic for my taste and they often didn't feel right in my hands. It's important that something you are going to handle A LOT feels just right when you pick it up... The N90s was the first non-F model AF Nikon that offered an optional grip that improved the handling of the camera and provided a handy vertical release button. It isn't perfect but it is an improvement over earlier models.

Here is what I like about the N90s:

The autofocus is quite good, at least in my experience. I gave it the ultimate test when I photographed a samba band marching in a July 4th parade. I walked the parade route basically in the middle of the group, and alternated between the autofocus and manual focus. To my amazement the camera provided well-focused frames in every instance, even when the dancers were moving toward me. And even though I consider myself a good manual-focus photographer, I just could not make as many shots using manual focus as I did using autofocus. The only time I chose manual-focus over autofocus was for off-center subjects; I just cannot abide using the focus-lock feature-it gets in the way of my photographing, especially when making photos of fast-moving subjects.

The advanced flash features are also very good. I didn't trust them for a long time, preferring to rely on my trusty old Metz flash using the auto apertures and built-in flash sensor on the flash. But then I tested the SB-26 (using unforgiving slide film...) and found that in all but the most difficult lighting situations I got the results I was looking for. Difficult lighting means extreme back-lighting, etc. which is beyond the capability of any auto flash system. In fast-changing situations or when the light is varied the modern flash system easily out-performed the older flash where it is necessary to adjust the flash aperture on the flash unit.

Having said that, I want to make it clear that I do not rely on the program mode for my exposures.I like to know exactly what the camera and flash are going to provide at any given setting in any situation I may find myself in. You should not expect a modern camera to always provide perfect focus and exposures in all situations because it just isn't possible, whatever the camera company advertisements would like us to believe.

In the case of the SB-26 flash, there is a difference between "Automatic TTL Flash" and "Standard TTL Flash." The difference is important when using it for fill-flash. The default setting for Automatic TTL Flash when doing flash fill is -2/3 of a stop less flash. I would say that is too much flash for any fill-flash situation that I can think of. And if you should choose to dial-in your own amount of flash reduction while in that mode you are still starting with that default setting. So a -1/3 setting is actually -1 stop in Automatic TTL Flash mode.

In Standard TTL Flash mode the camera operator must set the amount of fill desired on the flash unit. That is the mode that I recommend people use and that you test the flash at various settings before you take an important picture. Generally speaking, color negative film can benefit from a flash fill of -1 stop, while slide film looks better with - 1 1/3 to -1 2/3 less flash. Of course, the settings you choose will depend on the effect you want and that is why I suggest that you shoot test film in the kind of situations you anticipate and even keep notes and the pictures you shot for future reference.

Another slight off-topic suggestion is to tape a Rosco warming gel over the flash reflector. The color of most flashes can be rather cool and it can be very noticeable when mixing flash with daylight. Most modern flashes have a color temp of between 5000-5500 degrees Kelvin, which is roughly the color temp of the light at noon on a bright, sunny day. All my flashes have a Rosco 3410 Roscosun 1/8 CTO gel on them, which warms the light approximately 600 degrees Kelvin. If you are using fill around sunset you will want to experiment with even warmer gels. They can be found at pro photo stores and at the major mail order camera outlets.

If you are shooting color negative film be sure that you have your prints made without any color compensation or you will be unable to tell how the warming gels affect your pictures. And look at the negatives to see if they are over or under exposed. With slide film what you shoot is what you get and exposure tolerance is much less than with negative film, so how it is processed isn't a factor here (unless there is a problem with the quality of the lab you are using!).

Finally, if I need a more compact camera I can remove the optional MB-10 grip. Doing this does adversely affect the handling of the camera, at least for this photographer...

Now here is what I don't like about the N90s:

It is relatively complex to learn and use. I had to buy the Magic Lantern Guides for both the N90s and SB-26 because I found the Nikon manuals to be inadequate. And I still carry the books in my camera bags because there are some features I use only rarely and I don't always remember the required steps.

I agree with another N90s reviewer that the camera isn't as rugged as I would like it to be, although I haven't had it break on me while in use. But I am very careful with my gear and if you are the kind of photographer that mistreats your equipment then this probably isn't the camera for you. Since I have to purchase my own gear I may be more careful than a newspaper photographer working with equipment that is provided by an employer. I did have an N90s take a terrible fall onto a concrete floor one time and the only thing broken was the lens filter and the screw-in eyepiece glass disappeared. I must say that I was amazed that the camera fared so well...

But the most disturbing thing about the N90s is that it was the first Nikon I ever purchased that had to be sent in for serious warranty repairs. (An F3 once had a meter that was 2/3 of a stop off but that is a different story...). In the case of one N90s, I had to send it in TWICE! The problem? Scratches were appearing on my film. Nikon never said what they thought was wrong with the cameras, but in both cases they replaced the auto film-loading mechanism and the film pressure plate. The second time I sent one of the bodies in they replaced the entire camera back.

The scratches were more severe on Ilford XP-2, which has a very soft film base and is easily damaged. But they even appeared on films like Kodak EPP.

Discussion about the problem on pro mailing lists pointed to the auto film-loading mechanism and it was obvious that this was a common problem. Whether this problem has been fixed in current production models is unknown to me. Nikon never publicly admitted to there being a design flaw but the company did repair one of my N90s bodies after it was out of the warranty period, which is mighty nice of them but also indicates that there was probably a known defect with the camera.

The bottom line? If you are in the market for a pro-level autofocus Nikon and you have around $750 to spend, then the N90s is worth considering. If I hadn't had the film scratching problem I would have rated this camera with four stars. But if you can afford it or can wait until you have enough money, I would instead look at the recently introduced F100, which appears to be a much more rugged camera and with an optional removable grip like the N90s. The F5? Only if you have a lot of $$$ and don't mind carrying around a very heavy camera. I sure wouldn't want to lug it around all day!